duminică, 25 mai 2014

Alcoolul in cosmetice

 Buna tuturor! Un subiect care m-a fascinat din momentul in care am devenit interesata de lumea ingredientelor cosmetice a fost alcoolul. Exista ideea bine implantata in creierasele noastre ca alcoolul e daunator pentru piele si unul din cele mai nocive ingrediente din cosmetice.  Astfel, am inceput sa cercetez putin si sa vad cum stau lucrurile. Totul a inceput din momentul in care mi-am luat o crema de ochi foarte buna care pretinde sa fie naturala si am observat acolo un mic amanunt: un ingredient care continea cuvantul nesuferit "alcohol"

Alcoolul este un conservant natural si se foloseste ca fixator in parfumuri. In ce priveste ingrijirea pielii, tipurile de alcool sunt impartite in 3 grupe: alcool bun, alcool rau si alcool cosmetic.

 Printre cele rele intalnimbenzyl alcohol, denatured alcohol, ethanol, ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, methanol si sd alcohol. Acestea usuca, irita si sunt cytotoxice. Cu toate ca producatorii de cosmetice care folosesc acest tip de alcool pretind echilibrarea  ph-ului pielii, eu una le voi evita pe cat posibil si nu le recomand decat in cazuri disperate de acnee unde se doreste un efect imediat stiind de la bun inceput si dezavantajele.

 Alcoolurile cosmetice sunt SD( Specially Denaturated)si sunt: Alcohol 23-A, SD Alcohol 40, and SD Alcohol 40-B. Aceste tipuri de alcool au fost denaturate prin adaugarea in compozitia lor de alte ingrediente precum apa si sunt folosite in sampoane si produse destinate ingrijirii corpului; sau  adaugarea altor genuri de substante, fiind folosite pentru produse de curatare, care pot fi chiar inflamabile sau toxice. Alcolul denaturat poate fi foarte toxic dar sunt si cateva tipuri de alcool denaturat care nu fac rau si le veti vedea in lista detaliata de mai jos. Cele pe care ar trebui sa le evitam sunt: isopropanol, methyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, pyridine, benzene, diethyl phthalate si naphtha. 

 Alcoolul bun este cunoscut drept un alcool gras sau uleios si anume: cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol si cetearyl alcohol. Aceste tipuri de alcool sunt folosite ca emulsori sau agenti de ingrosare avand un efect hidratant asupra tenului. Acestia sunt derivati din ingrediente naturale precum cocosul si sunt foarte bine tolerati inclusiv de catre o piele sensibila.

 Am selectat cateva tipuri de alcool cunoscute sau care apar destul de des in cosmetice, pentru a va lamuri cam cum sta treaba si sper sa nu va deranjeze ca e in engleza: 

Myristyl alcohol

An organic fatty alcohol preservative.
Mainly acts as a stabiliser - stops oils and liquids from separating and adds a soft feel to the liquid.
It can irritate sensitive skin.
Be cautious if you have dry skin.
May be derived from animal sources - animal by-products. (Does not have to be mentioned on the label)

Arachidyl Alcohol

An organic fatty alcohol preservative.
Mainly acts as a stabiliser - stops oils and liquids from separating and adds a soft feel to the liquid.
It can irritate sensitive skin.
Be cautious if you have dry skin.
May be derived from animal sources - animal by-products. (Does not have to be mentioned on the label.

Benzyl Alcohol

An organic preservative and / or fragrance.
EU law - 1% maximum concentration
In Europe, it must be indicated in the list of ingredients when concentration exceeds:
  • 0.001% in leave-on the skin products
  • 0.01% in products that are rinsed off the skin
Some studies have shown positive geno-toxicity results.

Cetearyl Alcohol

An organic fatty alcohol preservative.
Acts as a stabiliser - stops oils and liquids from separating and reduces foaming.
There is no evidence of this alcohol being a skin irritant or sensitiser.
Be cautious if you have dry skin.
May be derived from animal sources - animal by-products. (Does not have to be mentioned on the label).

Cetyl Alcohol

An organic fatty alcohol preservative derived from coconut oil.
Acts as a stabiliser - stops oils and liquids from separating and reduces foaming.
Gives the skin a soft appearance and adds lubrication to the formula,
There is no evidence of this alcohol being a skin irritant or sensitiser.
Be cautious if you have dry skin.
May be derived from animal sources - animal by-products. (Does not have to be mentioned on the label)

Stearyl Alcohol

An organic fatty alcohol preservative derived from coconut oil.
Acts as a stabiliser - stops oils and liquids from separating and reduces foaming.
Gives the skin a soft appearance and adds lubrication to the formula.
There is no evidence of this alcohol being a skin irritant or sensitiser.
Be cautious if you have dry skin.
May be derived from animal sources - animal by-products. (Does not have to be mentioned on the label)

Denatured AlcoholDibutyl Phthalate

Dibutyl phthalate (DBP) is a commonly used plasticizer. It is also used as an additive to adhesives, printing inks and nail polish.
Banned in the European Union in all cosmetics.
Restricted in the European Union for use in children's toys since 1999.
Added to the California Proposition 65 (1986) list of suspected teratogens in November 2006.
Banned in the USA in children's toys and childcare articles, in concentrations of 1000 ppm or greater.
It is a suspected endocrine disruptor.
A study on CDC data revealed that American men with abdominal obesity or insulin resistance (a precursor to diabetes) were more likely to have high levels of DEHP and DBP metabolites in their urine than men without those problems.

Dimethicone

A silicone polymer used to slow moisture loss and soothes the skin from irritations.
It also soothes contact dermatitis, reduces redness caused by Rosacea and acts an an anti-inflammatory.
The Joint FAO/WHO Committee has established an acceptable daily intake level of 0 to 1.5 mg/kg of body weight.
There are no reported side effects when used on the skin.

Dimethiconol

A synthetic silicone used as a "Skin Conditioning Agent".
Adds lubrication and creates a barrier over your skin to reduce loss of moisture.
There is no evidence that it causes allergenic reactions or any other safety issues.
It is claimed that the quantities used in cosmetics are considered safe for humans.

Disodium EDTA

A synthetic preservative - protects the product from spoiling, protects the fragrance and keeps the clarity (or appearance) of the liquid.
In low doses, some studies show this ingredient to be mildly cytotoxic (affects your cells) and geno-toxic (affects the DNA thereby making the cell mutagenic or cancergenic)
Studies of large doses (orally) showed reproductive and developmental effects.
It is claimed that the quantities used in cosmetics are considered safe for humans.
Because EDTA is used so extensively, it has become an environmental polluter or better known as a Persistent Organic Polluter - POP.
It is long range (travels the earth) and bio-accumulative (absorbed faster into your body than what your body can get rid of it).
It is resistant to environmental degradation.
Examples of POP's are Agent Orange, DDT and Chlordane.
POP's can cause death and illnesses.
They disrupt the endocrine, reproductive, and immune systems.
They cause neuro-behavioural disorders; and cancers possibly including breast cancer.
Typical POP exposure if from your food or environment.

 Concluzia mea finala: In primul rand am inteles ca nu toate tipurile de alcool sunt rele, cu siguranta m-as feri de alcoolul rau si toate formele lui vor fi adaugate pe lista neagra de ingrediente. Am aflat in sfarsit si despre dimethicone pe care l-am vazut foarte des pe lista ingredientelor, mai ales sampoane. Un alt lucru care nu tine de stiinta ar fi ca orice produs care la folosire degaja acel miros specific alcoolului are o cantitate neadmisa de alcool si clar nu-l voi include in rutina mea. Sper sa-ti fie si tie de ajutor si sa distruga mituri si conceptii auzite sau spuse fara dovezi. 
Surse: 
http://www.paiskincare.com/blog/
http://www.mineral-makeup-cosmetica.com/
http://chemistry.about.com/

8 comentarii:

  1. Adică ai aflat ca dimethicone e un ingredient nedaunator ? Eu știam ca e un silicon, iar silicoanele sunt cele de care trebuie sa ne ferim :D

    RăspundețiȘtergere
    Răspunsuri
    1. depinde ...fa mai multa cercetare Ioana, nu te lua dupa un singur articol. cauta studii si citeste in dictionare de ingrediente. Spre exemplu, intr-un balsam de par, care il folosesti pe varfuri, hidrateaza parul si ii da un aspect mai bun. nu l-as folosi la radacina parului. nu l-as recomanda pe tenurile grase, pentru porii dilatati.

      Ștergere
    2. Nu ma iau după articole, am o tipa italianca care se pricepe, iar ea spune ca e un silicon :D

      Ștergere
    3. cum consideri tu, fiecare are dreptul sa faca ce alegeri vrea. nu se pune problema daca e silicon sau nu, ci daca iti face rau sau nu. :D

      Ștergere
  2. E asa de greu sa fi informat in privinta ingredientelor (mai ales prin faptul ca au niste denumiri greu de tinut minte). Eu am avut falsa siguranta ca produsele care se gasesc in magazinele naturiste sunt mai "sigure", pana m-am uitat pe lista de ingrediente si am vazut inclusiv parabeni. :( Greu!

    Multumim de articol!

    RăspundețiȘtergere
    Răspunsuri
    1. asa e Teodora. In privinta parabenilor taberele sunt impartite. Unii spun ca sunt niste conservanti blanzi, pe cand altii afirma cu tarie ca sunt vinovati de cancerul la san si sunt foarte toxici. Inca cercetez si aceasta situatie! Eu am trecuta in agenda o lista cu ingredientele nocive si cand nu sunt sigura scot agenda si ma uit. Poti sa-ti treci si in telefon. Ma bucur ca ti-a placut :**

      Ștergere
  3. Un articol interesant! De obicei eu când nu sunt sigură cu privire la un ingredient îl caut în dictionarul cosmetic de pe site-ul paula's choice.

    RăspundețiȘtergere